Pruning that improves the tree, not just its outline.
ANSI A300-standard cuts that build strong structure, clear hazards, and let your trees live longer.
We never top trees.
It comes up on almost every estimate. Someone asks if we can just "take the top off" — to reduce height, save the view, or stop limbs from threatening the house. The answer is no, and here's why we mean it.
Topping forces a tree to push out weak, sucker-style regrowth from the cut points. Within a few years, you've traded a structurally sound tree for one with multiple decay-prone wounds and dozens of fast-growing, poorly-attached limbs. The tree looks worse, it's now more dangerous in a storm, and it'll need more frequent (more expensive) work for the rest of its life.
There are better answers. We can reduce height through a technique called drop-crotch pruning — making cuts back to a lateral branch large enough to assume dominance. We can thin the canopy to reduce wind load. We can take out the problem limb specifically. We're happy to walk you through the options.
What we actually do up there.
Pruning is a craft, not a haircut. Here's the kind of work that makes up most of our trimming calls.
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Structural pruning
Removing co-dominant leaders, crossing limbs, and weak attachments while the tree is young — so it grows into a stable, lasting form.
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Crown thinning
Selective limb removal that lets light and wind through the canopy. Reduces sail-load in storms without changing the tree's natural shape.
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Crown raising
Lifting low branches for clearance over driveways, roofs, and walkways. We cut at the branch collar, never flush with the trunk.
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Deadwood removal
Pulling dead, dying, or hanging limbs out of the canopy. Reduces fall hazards and helps the tree focus resources on healthy growth.
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Vista pruning
Selective cuts that open a view without disfiguring the tree. Done with restraint — we'd rather make ten small cuts than one big one.
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Restoration pruning
Bringing back trees that have been topped or improperly cut in the past. Multi-year plans to retrain the canopy into a healthy structure.
Tree Trimming — FAQs
How often should trees be trimmed?
Young trees benefit from light structural pruning every 2–3 years. Mature trees typically need attention every 4–7 years, depending on species and location. Fruit trees and specific ornamentals have their own schedules — we'll lay out a plan during the walk-through.
When is the best time of year to prune?
Late winter to early spring is ideal for most species — the tree is dormant, structure is visible, and there's less stress on the plant. We avoid pruning oaks during oak wilt season, and we time fruit-tree work around the fruiting cycle. There's a right window for every tree.
Will you top my tree if I ask you to?
No. Topping is the practice of cutting back to stubs or lateral branches that are too small to take over — it's the single most damaging thing you can do to a tree. We'll explain alternatives that achieve what you're actually trying to accomplish, whether that's height reduction, view clearance, or storm prep.
Can heavy pruning hurt my tree?
Yes — pruning more than 25% of a tree's canopy in a single season puts it under serious stress. ANSI A300 standards recommend 15–20% as a general ceiling. We pace work over multiple seasons when needed.