Risk Assessment

How to spot a hazard tree before it falls on something expensive

Tom Brennan, ISA-Certified Arborist · TRAQ March 8, 2026 8 min read
A leaning tree with visible structural issues

Most hazard trees give you plenty of warning before they fail. The signs are visible from the ground if you know what to look for — and a lot of the time, the homeowner actually does notice, they just don't know what they're seeing. Here's a walk-through of what we check on every property assessment.

Start at the bottom

We always look at the root flare first. The base of a healthy tree should be visibly wider than the trunk above it, with the roots clearly fanning out into the ground. If the trunk looks like a telephone pole — going straight into the soil with no flare — that's a problem. Buried root flares are one of the most common (and most overlooked) causes of tree decline and instability.

Things to check at ground level:

  • Visible root flare? If the trunk meets the soil at a flat 90°, the tree is likely planted too deep or has been buried by mulch, sod, or grade changes.
  • Mushrooms or conks at the base? Fruiting bodies of decay fungi — almost always a sign the structural roots are compromised. Take photos and don't assume it's nothing.
  • Lifted soil on one side? A tell-tale sign that the root plate has shifted. Trees that have started to fail at the roots will lift soil on the opposite side as they lean.
  • Cracks in the ground radiating from the trunk? Same story as soil lifting. Active root failure.

Then look up the trunk

The trunk is the easiest part to assess from the ground. Cavities, cracks, and old wounds all tell a story. You're looking for:

  • Cavities or hollows. A small one isn't necessarily a problem — trees can wall off decay and remain structurally sound around it. But large cavities, especially in trees with multiple stems or heavy lateral limbs, deserve a professional look.
  • Vertical cracks or splits. Cracks running with the grain are usually structural. Cracks that run horizontally are more concerning — they suggest active movement.
  • Bulges or sunken areas. Sometimes indicate internal decay where the tree has tried to compensate by laying down extra wood on the outside.
  • Bark sloughing off in sheets. Often a sign that the wood beneath is dead. A small patch isn't an emergency. Large sections are.

Then the canopy

The hardest part to assess from the ground, but the most useful information for understanding the tree's overall health. We look for:

  • Dead wood — how much, how big, where. A handful of small dead twigs is normal. Whole limbs of deadwood, especially in the upper canopy, is not.
  • Crown dieback. When the tips of branches at the top of the tree die back first. Usually a sign of root or vascular issues. Walk around the tree and look at it from multiple angles.
  • Sparse or undersized leaves. If the canopy looks thinner than it did two years ago, or the leaves are noticeably smaller, something's going on underground.
  • Co-dominant leaders with included bark. Two major trunks meeting in a V with bark trapped in the union. These are weak attachments and one of the most common failure points in mature trees.

The "lean test"

A tree that's leaning isn't necessarily a hazard — many trees grew up at an angle and are perfectly stable. What you're looking for is a new lean. The clearest signs: soil cracks on the opposite side, lifted earth at the base, or a sudden change in lean angle after a wind event. Trees that have always leaned and have a normal, intact root flare are usually fine.

The trees that fall are rarely surprises. They're trees that were already showing you they were in trouble — they just didn't have anyone interpreting the signs.

When to call us (and when not to)

If you see any of the following, schedule an assessment:

  • Fungal fruiting bodies (conks, mushrooms) on the trunk or at the base
  • Visible vertical cracks, especially recent ones
  • Large cavities, particularly on multi-stem trees
  • Crown dieback affecting more than a few small branches
  • A new lean, or evidence of root plate movement
  • Any tree within striking distance of a structure that you've noticed changes in

And honestly, if a tree gives you a bad feeling — get a professional opinion. Most of our risk assessments end with "the tree is fine, here's why." We'd rather walk a property and tell you nothing's wrong than have you worry about it for another year.

Worried about a tree on your property?

Schedule a risk assessment — we'll walk the property, document what we find, and tell you what's actually a problem.